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Provedor de dados:  ArchiMer
País:  France
Título:  Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions
Autores:  Suanez, Serge
Cancouet, Romain
Floc'H, France
Blaise, Emmanuel
Ardhuin, Fabrice
Filipot, Jean-francois
Cariolet, Jean-marie
Delacourt, Christophe
Data:  2015-09
Ano:  2015
Palavras-chave:  Macrotidal beach
Extreme water level
Resumo:  Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels over the whole period of dune morphological change monitoring. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01Hmoξo) and field runup measurements (Rmax) was obtained (R2 85%). The goodness of fit given by the RMSE was about 0.29 m. A good relationship was noticed between dune erosion and high water levels when the water levels exceeded the dune foot elevation. In contrast, when extreme water levels were below the height of the toe of the dune sediment budget increased, inducing foredune recovery. These erosion and accretion phases may be related to the North Atlantic Oscillation Index. Keywords: macrotidal beach; runup; storm; dune;
Tipo:  Text
Idioma:  Inglês

Editor:  Mdpi
Formato:  application/pdf
Fonte:  Journal Of Marine Science And Engineering (2077-1312) (Mdpi), 2015-09 , Vol. 3 , N. 3 , P. 674-698
Direitos:  2015 by the authors; licensee MDPI, Basel, Switzerland. This article is an open access article distributed under the terms and conditions of the Creative Commons Attribution license (


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