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A comprehensive hydro-geomorphic study of cliff-top storm deposits on Banneg Island during winter 2013–2014 ArchiMer
Autret, Ronan; Dodet, Guillaume; Fichaut, Bernard; Suanez, Serge; David, Laurence; Leckler, Fabien; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Ammann, Jerome; Grandjean, Philippe; Allemand, Pascal; Filipot, Jean-francois.
Large clastic cliff-top storm deposits (called CTSDs) are one of the most remarkable signatures that characterizes extreme storm wave events on coastal cliffs. Hence, the study of CTSDs is of key importance for understanding and predicting the impacts of extreme storm wave events on rocky coasts or establishing proxies for storm intensity. The present study uses new data including hydrodynamic measurements in both deep and intertidal waters, and records of CTSDs displacement and deposition across Banneg Island during the stormy winter 2013–2014. Two drone-based surveys were carried out in January 2013 (pre-storms) and in April 2014 (post-storms). In addition, complementary field observations were carried out during the winter, providing a comprehensive and...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Cliff-top storm deposit; Block transport; Extra-tropical cyclone; Run-up; Coastal erosion; Brittany.
Ano: 2016 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00353/46411/46139.pdf
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A unified deep-to-shallow water wave-breaking probability parameterization ArchiMer
Filipot, Jean-francois; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Babanin, Alexander V..
Breaking probabilities and breaking wave height distributions (BWHDs) in deep, intermediate, and shallow water depth are compared, and a generic parameterization is proposed to represent the observed variability of breaking parameters as a function of the nondimensional water depth. In intermediate and deep water, where waves of different scales may have markedly different breaking probabilities, a BWHD as a function of wave frequency is proposed and validated with intermediate-depth and deep water observational data. The current study focuses on waves with frequencies between 0.55 and 3.45 times the peak frequency f(p). For the dominant frequency, the integration of the frequency-dependent BWHD provides a breaking probability that reproduces the known...
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Ano: 2010 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00030/14098/11330.pdf
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A unified spectral parameterization for wave breaking: From the deep ocean to the surf zone ArchiMer
Filipot, Jean-francois; Ardhuin, Fabrice.
A new wave-breaking dissipation parameterization designed for phase-averaged spectral wave models is presented. It combines wave breaking basic physical quantities, namely, the breaking probability and the dissipation rate per unit area. The energy lost by waves is first explicitly calculated in physical space before being distributed over the relevant spectral components. The transition from deep to shallow water is made possible by using a dissipation rate per unit area of breaking waves that varies with the wave height, wavelength and water depth. This parameterization is implemented in the WAVEWATCH III modeling framework, which is applied to a wide range of conditions and scales, from the global ocean to the beach scale. Wave height, peak and mean...
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Ano: 2012 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00079/18998/16571.pdf
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Dissipation source terms and whitecap statistics ArchiMer
Leckler, Fabien; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Mironov, Alexey.
Whitecaps are the main sink of wave energy and their occurrence has been related to the steepness of the waves. Recent parameterizations of the wave dissipation in numerical models are based on this property, but wave models have seldom been verified in terms of whitecap properties. Here we analyze and adjust the breaking statistics used in two recent wave dissipation parameterizations implemented in the spectral wave model WAVEWATCH III (R) and now used operationaly at NOAA/NCEP. For dominant breaking waves, the reduction of breaking probabilities with wave age is well reproduced. Across the spectrum, the parameterizations produce a reasonable distribution of breaking fronts for wave frequencies up to three times the dominant frequency, but fail to...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Wave breaking; Dissipation source term; Whitecap statistics.
Ano: 2013 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00155/26579/26386.pdf
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Observations and Predictions of Wave Runup, Extreme Water Levels, and Medium-Term Dune Erosion during Storm Conditions ArchiMer
Suanez, Serge; Cancouet, Romain; Floc'H, France; Blaise, Emmanuel; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Cariolet, Jean-marie; Delacourt, Christophe.
Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Macrotidal beach; Runup; Storm; Dune; Erosion; Extreme water level; NAO.
Ano: 2015 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00276/38765/37306.pdf
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On the modeling errors in the tidal power assessment ArchiMer
Filipot, Jean-francois; Delafosse, Coline; Marzin, Thibault; Baston, Susana.
The present paper discusses the errors produced while estimating the tidal power with numerical circulation models. The study relies on the analysis of five model-data comparisons issued from the literature. As usually done in the tidal power assessment studies, statistics are first derived for the current velocities. The novelty of this work resides in the direct computation of power density statistics. The errors in the power density prediction are found to be significantly higher than for the current velocity, as expected since power density is a function of velocity cubed. This stresses the need to consider the uncertainties in the tidal energy estimation for the profitability assessment of potential tidal sites.
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Tidal power; Numerical circulation models; ADCP; Statistics.
Ano: 2014 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00230/34114/32569.pdf
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Projet EMACOP : modélisation numérique des vagues à l'approche de la digue d'Esquibien par le code SWASH ArchiMer
Coignard, Jonathan; Michard, Bertrand; Filipot, Jean-francois; Sergent, Philippe.
Dans un contexte de développement durable, la tendance actuelle est de se tourner vers des sources alternatives de production d’énergie. Le projet National de Recherche EMACOP (Energies MArines COtières et Portuaires) a entre autres pour objectif de définir le potentiel houlomoteur aux abords d’ouvrages côtiers. Dans le présent travail, une simulation numérique des transformations induites aux vagues à l’approche du site d’Esquibien (Finistère) est réalisée. La modélisation numérique des vagues est effectuée avec le code de calcul SWASH (ZIJLEMA et al., 2011). Pour chaque simulation, des résultats d’élévation temporelle, de hauteur significative et de spectre directionnel sont obtenus. Les analyses des simulations portent sur l’étude des conditions...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: EMACOP; Energies marine; Modélisation numérique; Transformation des vagues; Code SWASH; Site; Esquibien; Potentiel énergétique; Génie côtier.
Ano: 2014 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00233/34429/32852.pdf
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Towards a turbulence characterization in tidal energy sites. First results of THYMOTE project ArchiMer
Guillou, Sylvain; Filipot, Jean-francois; Thiebot, Jérôme; Germain, Gregory; Chaplain, Nicolas; Ikhennicheu, Maria; Duarte, Rui; Gaurier, Benoit; Bourgoin, Adrien; Mercier, Philippe; Ata, Riadh; Laverne, Jérôme; Benhamadouche, Sofiane; Pieterse, Aline; Maisondieu, Christophe; Poizot, Emmanuel; Poirier, Jean-charles; Auvray, Cedric; Droniou, Elois; Arramounet, Valentin; Pinon, Grégory.
Tidal turbine will be installed in area with high current and high turbulence level. A characterisation of this last is required. The aim of the project THYMOTE is to characterize and understand the generation of eddies from smaller to several tens of meters. Three technics are used: Numerical modelling, Physical modelling, field measurements. Physical and numerical modelling show clearly the appearance of the eddies close to the bottom in presence of dunes or rocks and their motion towards the free surface.
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Ano: 2019 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00479/59091/61729.pdf
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Wave and turbulence measurements at a tidal energy site ArchiMer
Filipot, Jean-francois; Prevosto, Marc; Maisondieu, Christophe; Le Boulluec, Marc; Thomson, Jim.
This work presents the analysis of wave and turbulence measurements collected at a tidal energy site. A new method is introduced to produce more consistent and rigorous estimations of the velocity fluctuations power spectral densities. An analytical function is further proposed to fit the observed spectra and could be input to the numerical models predicting power production and structural loading on tidal turbines. Another new approach is developed to correct for the effect of the Doppler noise on the high frequencies power spectral densities. The analysis of velocity time series combining wave and turbulent contributions demonstrates that the turbulent motions are coherent throughout the water column, rendering the wave coherence-based methods not...
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Ano: 2015 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00254/36537/35074.pdf
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Wave Runup Over Steep Rocky Cliffs ArchiMer
Dodet, Guillaume; Leckler, Fabien; Sous, D.; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Suanez, S..
Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low‐to‐mild‐sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < tanβ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Wave runup; Steep slopes; Rocky cliffs; Extreme values; Banneg Island.
Ano: 2018 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00463/57518/59695.pdf
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