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| Feng, Yanqing; Chen, Zishen; Li, Zhilong; Li, Zhiqiang. |
| Using the data of beach face high oscillations and waves and flows of the surf zones influenced by the swells, the characteristics including beach face variation trends, trend shapes, oscillation periods, oscillation intensions of different profile shapes, and the characteristic relations between different stake points on the same profile were analyzed comparatively. The relations between the beach face with high oscillations erosion and sediment and the surf zone infragravity waves were also analyzed based on the cross spectrum analysis. The results showed that the swash diffluences caused by the beach cusp rhythm topography hasten the sediment transport from the beach ridge to beach paddy, and the beach face of the swash zones has the infragravity... |
| Tipo: Journal Contribution |
Palavras-chave: Swash; Waves (water); Spectrum. |
| Ano: 2008 |
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1834/5868 |
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