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	Provedor de dados ArchiMer (1) Autor Arhan, Michel (1) Plaisted, Ro (1) Tipo do documento Text (1) Ano 1981 (1) País France (1) Idioma Inglês (1)		Ordenar por:  Relevância Autor Título Ano Registros recuperados: 1 Primeira ... 1 ... Última Non-linear deformation of sea-wave profiles in intermediate and shallow water ArchiMer Arhan, Michel; Plaisted, Ro. The present paper is a study of the nonlinear deformations of sea-wave profiles in intermediate (20 m depth) and shallow (4 m) water, based on wave staff and bottom pressure in situ measurements. The nonlinear deformations have been decomposed into two elementary classes : asymmetry with respect to the mean water surface and asymmetry with respect to a vertical line passed through the wave crest. The extend of the deformation of the first kind is estimated by computing the experimental statistical distributions of wave crest heights and through depths. These distributions are shown to deviate from the Rayleigh law (applicable to linear sea states), and are well fitted by a second order perturbation model deduced from the Stokes theory. The second kind of... Tipo: Text Ano: 1981 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/1981/publication-5322.pdf Registros recuperados: 1 Primeira ... 1 ... Última

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