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Bennis, A. -c.; Dumas, Franck; Blanke, Bruno. |
The mechanics of rip currents are complex, involving interactions between waves, currents, water levels and bathymetry that pose particular challenges for numerical modeling. Horizontal turbulent diffusion in a rip system is difficult to measure using dye dilution or surfzone drifters, as shown by the range of published values for the horizontal diffusion coefficient. Here, we studied the effects of horizontal mixing on wave–current interactions by testing several diffusivity estimates in a fully coupled 3D wave–current model run at two different spatial resolutions. Published results using very low diffusion have found that near the shore the wave rays converge towards the rip channel because of refraction by the currents. We showed that this process is... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Coastal ocean modelling; Nearshore processes; Rip currents; Wave current interactions; Horizontal mixing. |
Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00309/42060/41530.pdf |
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Bennis, Anne-claire; Dumas, Franck; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Blanke, Bruno. |
Wave set-up is often underestimated by the models (e.g. Raubenheimer et al., 2001). Our paper discusses how the wave set-up may be changed by the inclusion of turbulent mixing in the bottom shear stress. The parameterization developed in Mellor (2002) for phase-averaged oscillatory boundary layer is used for this purpose. Two studies are carried out. The dependence of the parameterization on the vertical discretization and on the magnitude of the near-bottom wave orbital velocity is investigated. The function that distributes the turbulent terms over the vertical is modified, giving a good agreement with the average of the phase-resolved velocities, but an overestimation of the turbulent phase-resolved velocities. Applying that parameterization to simulate... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Bottom friction; Vertical mixing; Wave set-up; Nearshore processes. |
Ano: 2014 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00188/29970/28482.pdf |
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