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| Bennis, A. -c.; Dumas, Franck; Blanke, Bruno. |
| The mechanics of rip currents are complex, involving interactions between waves, currents, water levels and bathymetry that pose particular challenges for numerical modeling. Horizontal turbulent diffusion in a rip system is difficult to measure using dye dilution or surfzone drifters, as shown by the range of published values for the horizontal diffusion coefficient. Here, we studied the effects of horizontal mixing on wave–current interactions by testing several diffusivity estimates in a fully coupled 3D wave–current model run at two different spatial resolutions. Published results using very low diffusion have found that near the shore the wave rays converge towards the rip channel because of refraction by the currents. We showed that this process is... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Coastal ocean modelling; Nearshore processes; Rip currents; Wave current interactions; Horizontal mixing. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00309/42060/41530.pdf |
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| Bennis, Anne-claire; Dumas, Franck; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Blanke, Bruno. |
| The mechanics of rip currents are complex, involving interactions between waves, currents, water levels and the bathymetry, that present particular challenges for numerical models. Here, the effects of a grid-spacing dependent horizontal mixing on the wave-current interactions are studied. Near the shore, wave rays diverge from channels towards bar crests because of refraction by topography and currents, in a way that depends on the rip current intensity which is itself modulated by the horizontal mixing. At low resolution with the grid-spacing dependent horizontal mixing, the wave motion is the same for both coupling modes because the wave deviation by the currents is weak. In high resolution case, however, classical results are found with the stabilizing... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Numerical modeling; Rip currents; Turbulence modeling; Wave-current interactions. |
| Ano: 2015 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00601/71288/69695.pdf |
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