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| Cox, Rónadh; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Dias, Frédéric; Autret, Ronan; Beisiegel, Nicole; Earlie, Claire S.; Herterich, James G.; Kennedy, Andrew; Paris, Raphaël; Raby, Alison; Schmitt, Pal; Weiss, Robert. |
| Coastal boulder deposits (CBD), transported by waves at elevations above sea level and substantial distances inland, are markers for marine incursions. Whether they are tsunami or storm deposits can be difficult to determine, but this is of critical importance because of the role that CBD play in coastal hazard analysis. Equations from seminal work by Nott (1997), here referred to as the Nott Approach, are commonly employed to calculate nominal wave heights from boulder masses as a means to discriminate between emplacement mechanisms. Systematic review shows that this approach is based on assumptions that are not securely founded and that direct relationships cannot be established between boulder measurements and wave heights. A test using an unprecedented... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Coastal boulder deposits; Storm waves; Tsunami; Hydrodynamic equations; Coastal erosion; Coastal hazard; Coastal geomorphology; Wave modeling. |
| Ano: 2020 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00610/72237/71040.pdf |
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| Sheremet, Alex; Staples, Tracy; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Suanez, Serge; Fichaut, Bernard. |
| On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Trapped waves; Storm waves. |
| Ano: 2014 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00175/28642/27070.pdf |
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