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| Cox, Rónadh; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Dias, Frédéric; Autret, Ronan; Beisiegel, Nicole; Earlie, Claire S.; Herterich, James G.; Kennedy, Andrew; Paris, Raphaël; Raby, Alison; Schmitt, Pal; Weiss, Robert. |
| Coastal boulder deposits (CBD), transported by waves at elevations above sea level and substantial distances inland, are markers for marine incursions. Whether they are tsunami or storm deposits can be difficult to determine, but this is of critical importance because of the role that CBD play in coastal hazard analysis. Equations from seminal work by Nott (1997), here referred to as the Nott Approach, are commonly employed to calculate nominal wave heights from boulder masses as a means to discriminate between emplacement mechanisms. Systematic review shows that this approach is based on assumptions that are not securely founded and that direct relationships cannot be established between boulder measurements and wave heights. A test using an unprecedented... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Coastal boulder deposits; Storm waves; Tsunami; Hydrodynamic equations; Coastal erosion; Coastal hazard; Coastal geomorphology; Wave modeling. |
| Ano: 2020 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00610/72237/71040.pdf |
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| Roland, Aron; Ardhuin, Fabrice. |
| The development of numerical wave models for coastal applications, including coupling with ocean circulation models, has spurred an ongoing effort on theoretical foundations, numerical techniques, and physical parameterizations. Some important aspects of this effort are reviewed here, and results are shown in the case of the French Atlantic and Channel coast using version 4.18 of the WAVEWATCH III R model. Compared to previous results, the model errors have been strongly reduced thanks to, among other things, the introduction of currents, coastal reflection, and bottom sediment types. This last item is described here for the first time, allowing unprecedented accuracy at some sites along the French Atlantic Coast. The adequate resolution, necessary to... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Wave modeling; Bottom friction; Coupling; Wave-current interaction. |
| Ano: 2014 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00192/30288/29918.pdf |
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| Feng, H; Vandemark, D; Quilfen, Yves; Chapron, Bertrand; Beckley, B. |
| The study presents assessment of an operational wave model (Wavewatch III), focusing upon the model sensitivity to wind-forcing products. Four wind fields are used to drive the model, including the NCEP/NCAR reanalysis and three other products that assimilate various satellite wind measurements having high spatial resolution, including the QuikSCAT scatterometer. Three wave field statistics: significant wave height, mean zero-crossing wave period, and mean square slope are compared with collocated TOPEX altimeter derivatives to gauge the relative skill of differing wind-forced model runs, as well as to demonstrate an extended use of the altimeter beyond simply supplying wave height for wave model validation and assimilation. Results suggest that model... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Sea state bias; Wind forcing; Scatterometer; Altimeter; Wave modeling. |
| Ano: 2006 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/2006/publication-1861.pdf |
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