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| Senechal, N; Dupuis, H; Bonneton, P; Howa, H; Pedreros, R. |
| The dissipation of the sea-swell frequency band energy (nominally 0.09 < f less than or equal to 0.3 Hz) and the distribution of low frequency band energy (nominally 0.005 less than or equal to f less than or equal to 0.09 Hz) on a transect crossing the surf and swash zones of a fine grained, gently sloping barred beach are investigated with data from a five element synchronous pressure sensor line deployed for 8 d. In this paper, we suggest a rational method to determine the frequency cut-off between the low frequency band and the sea-swell frequency band from the cross-shore evolution of the sea surface elevation energy density spectra. Sea-swell wave heights are depth limited, consistent with previous works whereas low frequency wave heights are... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Cross-shore approach; Wave spectra; Wave dissipation; Infragravity waves. |
| Ano: 2001 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00322/43331/42896.pdf |
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