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| Castelle, Bruno; Dodet, Guillaume; Masselink, Gerd; Scott, Tim. |
| A pioneering and replicable method based on a 66-year numerical weather and wave hindcast is developed to optimize a climate index based on the sea level pressure (SLP) that best explains winter wave height variability along the coast of western Europe, from Portugal to UK (36-52 degrees N). The resulting so-called Western Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) is based on the sea level pressure gradient between the stations Valentia (Ireland) and Santa Cruz de Tenerife (Canary Islands). The WEPA positive phase reflects an intensified and southward shifted SLP difference between the Icelandic low and the Azores high, driving severe storms that funnel high-energy waves toward western Europe southward of 52 degrees N. WEPA outscores by 25-150% the other leading... |
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| Ano: 2017 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71850/70485.pdf |
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| Cocquempot, Lucie; Delacourt, Christophe; Paillet, Jerome; Riou, Philippe; Aucan, Jérôme; Castelle, Bruno; Charria, Guillaume; Claudet, Joachim; Conan, Pascal; Coppola, Laurent; Hocdé, Régis; Planes, Serge; Raimbault, Patrick; Savoye, Nicolas; Testut, Laurent; Vuillemin, Renaud. |
| To understand and predict the physical, chemical, and biological processes at play in coastal and nearshore marine areas requires an integrated, interdisciplinary approach. The case study of the French structuration of coastal ocean and nearshore observing systems provides an original overview on a federative research infrastructure named ILICO. It is a notable example of national structuration and pan-institution efforts to investigate the forefront of knowledge on the processes at work within the critical coastal zone. ILICO comprises, in a pluridisciplinary approach, eight distributed network-systems of observation and data analysis that are accredited and financially supported by French research institutions and the French Ministry for Higher... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Observation infrastructure; National structuration; Interdisciplinary; Coastal ocean; Coastline. |
| Ano: 2019 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00503/61489/65292.pdf |
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| Masselink, Gerd; Castelle, Bruno; Scott, Tim; Dodet, Guillaume; Suanez, Serge; Jackson, Derek; Floc'H, France. |
| Studies of coastal vulnerability due to climate change tend to focus on the consequences of sea level rise, rather than the complex coastal responses resulting from changes to the extreme wave climate. Here we investigate the 2013/2014 winter wave conditions that severely impacted the Atlantic coast of Europe and demonstrate that this winter was the most energetic along most of the Atlantic coast of Europe since at least 1948. Along exposed open-coast sites, extensive beach and dune erosion occurred due to offshore sediment transport. More sheltered sites experienced less erosion and one of the sites even experienced accretion due to beach rotation induced by alongshore sediment transport. Storm wave conditions such as were encountered during the 2013/2014... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Waves; Storms; Beaches; Atlantic; Europe. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71852/70473.pdf |
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| Mazieres, Alais; Gillet, Herve; Castelle, Bruno; Mulder, Thierry; Guyot, Corentin; Garlan, Thierry; Mallet, Cyril. |
| In this study, the Capbreton canyon head, just off the coast, is investigated using high-resolution multibeam bathymetry datasets, sediment samples and numerical modeling. The HR bathymetry analysis reveals a morphological connection between the longshore trough and the head of the canyon. The analysis of recent sediment samples shows a clear correlation between the sediment of the canyon head and that of the nearshore. Hydrodynamic modeling (a coupled wave-flow model) shows that for high-energy waves, the rotational nature of surf-zone circulation reverses and wave-induced currents have the potential to transport large quantities of nearshore sands toward the canyon head. All these arguments support the assumption that the canyon head captures a part of... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Longshore drift; Submarine canyon; Capbreton; Hydrodynamic modeling; Sediment transport. |
| Ano: 2014 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29118/27524.pdf |
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| Castelle, Bruno; Dodet, Guillaume; Masselink, Gerhard; Scott, Tim. |
| A 69-year (1948-2017) numerical weather and wave hindcast is used to investigate the interannual variability and trend of winter wave height along the west coast of Europe. Results show that the winter-mean wave height, variability, and periodicity all increased significantly in the northeast Atlantic over the last seven decades which primarily correlate with changes in the climate indices North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) affecting atmospheric circulation in the North Atlantic. NAO and WEPA primarily explain the increase in winter-mean wave height and periodicity, respectively, while both WEPA and NAO explain the increase in interannual variability. This increase in trend, variability, and periodicity resulted in... |
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| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71847/70487.pdf |
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| Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion. |
| Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf |
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| Garnier, Josette; Castelle, Bruno; Labille, Jérôme; Souchu, Philippe; Thieu, Vincent; Delacourt, Christophe. |
| L’interface entre l’atmosphère et les surfaces continentales est un lieu d’échanges importants d’énergie et de matière liquide, solide ou gazeuse. Aussi, comprendre et quantifier les interactions entre surfaces et atmosphère est un enjeu de premier ordre pour essayer d’anticiper au mieux les conséquences de nouvelles et futures évolutions des surfaces continentales, que ce soit sous l’effet de l’évolution du climat ou de modifications de l’usage des sols. Des processus spécifiques se produisent à l’interface surface-atmosphère, rendant nécessaire l’étude de cette interface non comme un simple lieu de transfert, mais en tant qu’objet propre. S’attacher à identifier et quantifier les processus opérant dans le continuum sol-eau-plante-atmosphère doit... |
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| Ano: 2019 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00603/71464/69919.pdf |
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| Dubarbier, Benjamin; Castelle, Bruno; Marieu, Vincent; Michallet, Hervé; Grasso, Florent; Ruessink, Gerben. |
| The recent advances of numerical beach profile models allowed the simulation of on/offshore sandbar migrations on timescales of weeks to months with fair success. These models were systematically applied to natural, persistently evolving, beaches. In this contribution, we apply our model to small-scale laboratory experiments for which coarse and lightweight sediment is used to satisfy the laws of similitude in the flume. Such experiments can result in equilibrium beach profiles and provide detailed information on the respective role of undertow and wave nonlinearities on sediment transport and the resulting cross-shore sandbar migration. Here we first apply the coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model 1DBeach to an... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Beach profile; Numerical model; Physical modelling; Equilibrium profile; Sandbar migration. |
| Ano: 2013 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29089/27503.pdf |
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