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| Grasso, Florent; Ruessink, B. G.. |
| Waves breaking in the shallow surf zone near the shoreline inject turbulence into the water column that may reach the bed to suspend sediment. Breaking-wave turbulence in the surf zone is, however, poorly understood, which is one of the reasons why many process-based coastal-evolution models predict coastal change during severe storms inadequately. Here, we use data collected in two natural surf zones to derive a new parameterization for the stability function C-mu that determines the magnitude of the eddy viscosity nu(t) in two-equation turbulent-viscosity models, nu(t) = C(mu)k(2)/epsilon, where k is turbulent kinetic energy and epsilon is the turbulence dissipation rate. In both data sets, the ratio of turbulence production to dissipation is small... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Eddy viscosity; Field measurements; Parameterization; Production; Surf zone; Turbulence. |
| Ano: 2012 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00114/22512/20204.pdf |
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| Yurovskaya, Maria; Rascle, Nicolas; Kudryavtsev, Vladimir; Chapron, Bertrand; Marie, Louis; Molemaker, Jeroen. |
| Reconstruction and evolution of two-dimensional spectra of surface waves in the Gulf of Mexico are derived from airborne sun-glitter imagery. As the proposed method is based on a linear transfer function deduced from the shape of the sunglitter brightness, the absolute wavenumber elevation spectrum does not require any additional assumption or information about sky brightness, wind or wave energy. The detailed description of the airborne image processing method is given. As demonstrated, retrieved spectra agree well with nearby NDBC buoy data, both for spectrum shape, level and energy angular distribution. The 180-degree wave direction ambiguity, inherent to image-derived spectra, is eliminated by using cross-correlation analysis between two consecutive... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Sunglitter; Sea surface waves; Directional wave spectrum; Aerial photography; Field measurements; Remote sensing observations; High resolution; Drone. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00465/57712/60174.pdf |
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