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Registros recuperados: 34 | |
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Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion. |
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum. |
Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf |
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Meule, S; Pinazo, C; Degiovanni, C; Barusseau, Jp; Libes, M. |
In marine coastal environments, storms have a major morphological impact on sand beaches. This study, part of the French Programme National d'Environnement Cotier, consisted in developing and applying hydrodynamic and sedimentary models to simulate the major processes that modify sand beaches. In order to study sediment dynamics, we developed three models to simulate waves, currents and sediment transport associated with a storm event. The wave model was a Mild Slope Equation model based on the parabolic approximation of the refraction-diffraction equation of Berkhoff. The hydrodynamic model was obtained by the depth-average of Navier Stockes' equations forced by the terms of radiation stresses induced by waves. The sedimentary model SEDSIM developed by... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Modification de la plage; Modèles numériques; Transport sédimentaire; Tempête; Courants induits par la houle; Beach modification; Numerical models; Sediment transport; Storm; Wave-induced current. |
Ano: 2001 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00322/43339/42887.pdf |
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Guillou, Nicolas; Rivier, Aurelie; Chapalain, Georges; Gohin, Francis. |
Numerous ecological problems of continental shelf ecosystems require a refined knowledge of the evolution of suspended sediment concentrations (SSC). The present investigation focuses on the spatial and temporal variabilities of near-surface SSC in coastal waters of the English Channel (western Europe) by exploiting numerical predictions from the Regional Ocean Modeling System ROMS. Extending previous investigations of ROMS performances in the Channel, this analysis refines, with increased spatial and temporal resolutions, the characterization of near-surface SSC patterns revealing areas where concentrations are highly correlated with evolutions of tides and waves. Significant tidal modulations of near-surface concentrations are thus found in the eastern... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Sediment transport; Numerical modeling; Satellite; ROMS; MERIS; MODIS. |
Ano: 2017 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00345/45607/45227.pdf |
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Lanckneus, J.; De Moor, G.; Berné, S.; Chamley, H.; De Batist, M.; Henriet, J.-P.; Terwindt, J.; Trentesaux, A.. |
The paper analyses the first results obtained in the framework of the RESECUSED project (MAST) whose objectives are the detailed analysis of the behaviour of sediments and bedforms of and on the Middelkerke Bank (Belgian Continental Shelf) and the study of the interaction between water movement, sediment transport and bedform mobility. The results include a preliminary analysis of the residual bottom load transport paths deduced from side scan sonar registrations, a map of the sandwaves on the bank, the first grain-size results of the superficial sediment and a study on the internal structure of the bank. |
Tipo: Info:eu-repo/semantics/article |
Palavras-chave: Bed forms; Continental shelves; Grain size; Granulometry; Sand waves; Sediment dynamics; Sediment transport; Shelf facies; Side scan sonar. |
Ano: 1991 |
URL: http://www.vliz.be/imisdocs/publications/262327.pdf |
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Registros recuperados: 34 | |
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