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Batifoulier, Francois; Lazure, Pascal; Bonneton, Philippe. |
Two hydrodynamic surveys based on acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) and drift buoys measurements taken in summer 2008 and 2009 revealed poleward coastal jets of up to 32 cm s(-1) that lasted up to 22 d along the Aquitaine shelf in the southeastern area of the Bay of Biscay. A strong increase in bottom temperature was associated with these currents, up to 4 degrees C in 5 d at 54 m depth. These observations occurred after a few days of westerlies, cross-shore winds which were thought to have only a limited impact on longshore circulation. Here, the MARS3D hydrodynamic model was used with a schematic bathymetry of the southeastern area of the Bay of Biscay to reproduce and analyze these coastal jets. Simulations revealed that the triggering mechanism... |
Tipo: Text |
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Ano: 2012 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00074/18569/16123.pdf |
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Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion. |
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum. |
Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf |
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