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Brinkkemper, J. A.; Lanckriet, T.; Grasso, Florent; Puleo, J. A.; Ruessink, B. G.. |
Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical... |
Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Turbulence; Plunging breakers; Swash; Laboratory experiment. |
Ano: 2016 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00277/38812/37538.pdf |
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