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Physical modeling of intermediate cross-shore beach morphology: Transients and equilibrium states ArchiMer
Grasso, Florent; Michallet, H.; Barthelemy, E.; Certain, R..
Laboratory experiments on cross-shore beach morphodynamics are presented. A lightweight sediment (density rho(s) = 1.19 g cm(-3)) model is used in order to fulfill a Shields number and Rouse number scaling. This choice aims at correctly reproducing bed load transport as well as suspension dynamics. Terraces and barred beach profiles obtained in the experiments also present close similarities with profiles observed in the field. In order to question the concept of equilibrium beach profile, wave forcings conforming to a JONSWAP spectrum were imposed over long periods (up to more than a hundred hours). An average bottom evolution velocity is defined and used to determine when the profile reaches equilibrium. Usually, beach profiles are characterized...
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Ano: 2009 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00092/20345/17988.pdf
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