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| Bertin, Xavier; Olabarrieta, Maitane. |
| This study investigates the relevance of infragravity (IG) waves at Albufeira Lagoon Inlet, a shallow wave-dominated inlet located on the western coast of Portugal. A field experiment carried out in September 2010 revealed the occurrence of low-frequency oscillations (i.e., 25-300 s) in water levels and current velocities. While these fluctuations were present over the ebb-tidal delta along the whole tidal cycle, they only appeared between the beginning of the flood and up to 2 h after high tide inside the lagoon. The XBeach modeling system was applied to Albufeira Lagoon Inlet and reproduced the generation and propagation of IG waves and their blocking during the ebb. This behavior was explained by blocking due to opposing tidal currents reaching 2.5 m... |
| Tipo: Text |
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| Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00668/78009/80251.pdf |
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| Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion. |
| Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf |
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