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| Grasso, Florent; Ruessink, B. G.. |
| Waves breaking in the shallow surf zone near the shoreline inject turbulence into the water column that may reach the bed to suspend sediment. Breaking-wave turbulence in the surf zone is, however, poorly understood, which is one of the reasons why many process-based coastal-evolution models predict coastal change during severe storms inadequately. Here, we use data collected in two natural surf zones to derive a new parameterization for the stability function C-mu that determines the magnitude of the eddy viscosity nu(t) in two-equation turbulent-viscosity models, nu(t) = C(mu)k(2)/epsilon, where k is turbulent kinetic energy and epsilon is the turbulence dissipation rate. In both data sets, the ratio of turbulence production to dissipation is small... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Eddy viscosity; Field measurements; Parameterization; Production; Surf zone; Turbulence. |
| Ano: 2012 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00114/22512/20204.pdf |
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| Brinkkemper, J. A.; Lanckriet, T.; Grasso, Florent; Puleo, J. A.; Ruessink, B. G.. |
| Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Turbulence; Plunging breakers; Swash; Laboratory experiment. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00277/38812/37538.pdf |
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