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| Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion. |
| Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf |
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| Defontaine, Sophie; Sous, Damien; Morichon, Denis; Verney, Romaric; Monperrus, Mathilde. |
| The present paper reports on a series of field experiments aiming to characterise the functioning of a man-engineered strongly forced salt-wedge estuary: the lower estuary of the Adour river, France. Bottom-moored velocity measurements and surface boat surveys have been performed under low river discharge conditions, for both neap and spring tides, in order to provide a well-documented reference framework to understand the dynamics of water masses, turbulence and suspended particulate matter (SPM) transport in the lower estuary. An additional campaign has been carried out in high river discharge conditions. This first documented in-situ study of the Adour lower estuary demonstrates its variability in terms of hydrological regimes, from salt-wedge to... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Salt-wedge estuary; Estuarine circulation; Stratification; Turbulence; Suspended particles transport; Adour river. |
| Ano: 2019 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00588/70049/67987.pdf |
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