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| Stringari, Ce; Prevosto, Marc; Filipot, Jean-francois; Leckler, Fabien; Guimaraes, Pv. |
| This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking (Pb) of deep water, dominant wind‐sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within ±30% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave field theory. For a given input wave spectrum we demonstrate how it is possible to derive a joint probability density function between wave phase speed (c) and horizontal orbital velocity at wave crest (u) from which a model for Pb can be obtained. A non‐linear kinematic wave breaking criterion consistent with the Gaussian framework is further proposed. Our model would allow, therefore, for application of the classical wave breaking criterion (that is, wave breaking occurs if u/c > 1) in spectral wave models which, to the... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Wave Breaking; Gaussian Field Theory; Wave Modeling. |
| Ano: 2021 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00677/78894/81199.pdf |
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