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| Masselink, Gerd; Castelle, Bruno; Scott, Tim; Dodet, Guillaume; Suanez, Serge; Jackson, Derek; Floc'H, France. |
| Studies of coastal vulnerability due to climate change tend to focus on the consequences of sea level rise, rather than the complex coastal responses resulting from changes to the extreme wave climate. Here we investigate the 2013/2014 winter wave conditions that severely impacted the Atlantic coast of Europe and demonstrate that this winter was the most energetic along most of the Atlantic coast of Europe since at least 1948. Along exposed open-coast sites, extensive beach and dune erosion occurred due to offshore sediment transport. More sheltered sites experienced less erosion and one of the sites even experienced accretion due to beach rotation induced by alongshore sediment transport. Storm wave conditions such as were encountered during the 2013/2014... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Waves; Storms; Beaches; Atlantic; Europe. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71852/70473.pdf |
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| Autret, Ronan; Dodet, Guillaume; Fichaut, Bernard; Suanez, Serge; David, Laurence; Leckler, Fabien; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Ammann, Jerome; Grandjean, Philippe; Allemand, Pascal; Filipot, Jean-francois. |
| Large clastic cliff-top storm deposits (called CTSDs) are one of the most remarkable signatures that characterizes extreme storm wave events on coastal cliffs. Hence, the study of CTSDs is of key importance for understanding and predicting the impacts of extreme storm wave events on rocky coasts or establishing proxies for storm intensity. The present study uses new data including hydrodynamic measurements in both deep and intertidal waters, and records of CTSDs displacement and deposition across Banneg Island during the stormy winter 2013–2014. Two drone-based surveys were carried out in January 2013 (pre-storms) and in April 2014 (post-storms). In addition, complementary field observations were carried out during the winter, providing a comprehensive and... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Cliff-top storm deposit; Block transport; Extra-tropical cyclone; Run-up; Coastal erosion; Brittany. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00353/46411/46139.pdf |
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| Suanez, Serge; Blaise, Emmanuel; Cancouet, Romain; Floc'H, France. |
| An experimental study based on field measurements for runup parameterization was conducted on a high energy macrotidal beach located on North Brittany (Vougot Beach). The approach was based on morphological and hydrodynamic high frequency monitoring collected between 2008 and 2013. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes (1971) runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed tidal water level and offshore wave height was produced to estimate extreme water levels defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide, (ii) storm surge, and (iii) vertical wave runup. A good correlation between this empirical equation (1.01H(mo)xi(o)) and field runup measurements... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Macrotidal beach; Runup; Storm; Dune; Erosion; Extreme water level. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00639/75097/75610.pdf |
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| Sheremet, Alex; Staples, Tracy; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Suanez, Serge; Fichaut, Bernard. |
| On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Trapped waves; Storm waves. |
| Ano: 2014 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00175/28642/27070.pdf |
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| Mahabot, Marie-myriam; Jaud, Marion; Pennober, Gwenaelle; Le Dantec, Nicolas; Troadec, Roland; Suanez, Serge; Delacourt, Christophe. |
| Under natural and anthropogenic pressure, the coastal regions are evolving rapidly (population growth, erosion, modification of services, etc.), and some of these changes increase their vulnerability. Monitoring the evolution of the coastal regions has thus become essential to understand how they respond to the various pressures and to define how their resilience could be increased. Among other outcomes, such monitoring should provide continuous, high-resolution data on the spatial and temporal evolution of the coastal areas, especially the shoreline zone. One appropriate way to acquire long, continuous, time series of data is to set up a permanent observatory in the zone to be monitored. This paper aims to provide recommendations and a methodological... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Carbonate beaches; Coral reef; Coastal observatory; UAV; TLS; Bathymetric Lidar. |
| Ano: 2017 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00638/75013/75695.pdf |
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| Suanez, Serge; Cancouet, Romain; Floc'H, France; Blaise, Emmanuel; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Cariolet, Jean-marie; Delacourt, Christophe. |
| Monitoring of dune erosion and accretion on the high-energy macrotidal Vougot beach in North Brittany (France) over the past decade (2004–2014) has revealed significant morphological changes. Dune toe erosion/accretion records have been compared with extreme water level measurements, defined as the sum of (i) astronomic tide; (ii) storm surge; and (iii) vertical wave runup. Runup parameterization was conducted using swash limits, beach profiles, and hydrodynamic (Hm0, Tm0,–1, and high tide water level—HTWL) data sets obtained from high frequency field surveys. The aim was to quantify in-situ environmental conditions and dimensional swash parameters for the best calibration of Battjes [1] runup formula. In addition, an empirical equation based on observed... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Macrotidal beach; Runup; Storm; Dune; Erosion; Extreme water level; NAO. |
| Ano: 2015 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00276/38765/37306.pdf |
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| Blaise, Emmanuel; Suanez, Serge; Stephan, Pierre; Fichaut, Bernard; David, Laurence; Cuq, Veronique; Autret, Ronan; Houron, Julien; Rouan, Mathias; Floc'H, France; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Cancouet, Romain; Davidson, Robert; Costa, Stephane; Delacourt, Christophe. |
| Between December 2013 and March 2014, a cluster of about 12 storm events hit the coast of Brittany with an exceptional frequency. It was in February that these storm events were the most frequent and particularly virulent. The significant wave heights measured off Finistere reached respectively 12.3 m and 12.4 m during Petra and Ulla storms on February 5 and 14. However, analysis of hydrodynamic conditions shows that only three episodes promoted extreme morphogenetic conditions because they were combined with high spring tide level. The first one occurred on January 1 to 4, it was followed by events from February 1 to 3, and March 2-3. During these three extreme events observed tide levels were above highest astronomical tide level (HAT). Maximum surge... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Tempête; Érosion; Trait de côte; Marée de vive-eau; Bretagne; Surcote; Storm; High spring tide; Surge; Erosion; Shoreline; Brittany. |
| Ano: 2015 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00310/42171/43029.pdf |
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