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| Brinkkemper, J. A.; Lanckriet, T.; Grasso, Florent; Puleo, J. A.; Ruessink, B. G.. |
| Current coastal-evolution models generally lack the ability to accurately predict bed level change in shallow (<~2 m) water, which is, at least partly, due to the preclusion of the effect of surface-induced turbulence on sand suspension and transport. As a first step to remedy this situation, we investigated the vertical structure of turbulence in the surf and swash zone using measurements collected under random shoaling and plunging waves on a steep (initially 1:15) field-scale sandy laboratory beach. Seaward of the swash zone, turbulence was measured with a vertical array of three Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADVs), while in the swash zone two vertically spaced acoustic doppler velocimeter profilers (Vectrino profilers) were applied. The vertical... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Turbulence; Plunging breakers; Swash; Laboratory experiment. |
| Ano: 2016 |
URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00277/38812/37538.pdf |
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| Feng, Yanqing; Chen, Zishen; Li, Zhilong; Li, Zhiqiang. |
| Using the data of beach face high oscillations and waves and flows of the surf zones influenced by the swells, the characteristics including beach face variation trends, trend shapes, oscillation periods, oscillation intensions of different profile shapes, and the characteristic relations between different stake points on the same profile were analyzed comparatively. The relations between the beach face with high oscillations erosion and sediment and the surf zone infragravity waves were also analyzed based on the cross spectrum analysis. The results showed that the swash diffluences caused by the beach cusp rhythm topography hasten the sediment transport from the beach ridge to beach paddy, and the beach face of the swash zones has the infragravity... |
| Tipo: Journal Contribution |
Palavras-chave: Swash; Waves (water); Spectrum. |
| Ano: 2008 |
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1834/5868 |
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