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| Dodet, Guillaume; Leckler, Fabien; Sous, D.; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Suanez, S.. |
| Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low‐to‐mild‐sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < tanβ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Wave runup; Steep slopes; Rocky cliffs; Extreme values; Banneg Island. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00463/57518/59695.pdf |
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| Abdalazeez, Ahmed. |
| The aim of this study is to estimate the wave runup on selected beaches around the northern Indian Ocean. The runup has been estimated using ERA-Interim, which is the latest global atmospheric re-analysis produced by the European Center for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF). ECMWF uses the global Wave Model (WAM) model to calculate two dimensional wave spectra. The distances between the model grid points and the beaches have been calculated by a great circle calculator. The beach slopes have been calculated by Google Earth for all locations, except Maldives beach, which was assumed as an imaginary beach because the method of calculating the slope could not be used there. The significant wave height as well as the peak wave period at the grid points... |
| Tipo: Theses and Dissertations |
Palavras-chave: Wave runup. |
| Ano: 2012 |
URL: http://hdl.handle.net/1834/4557 |
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