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Registros recuperados: 10
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A comprehensive hydro-geomorphic study of cliff-top storm deposits on Banneg Island during winter 2013–2014 ArchiMer
Autret, Ronan; Dodet, Guillaume; Fichaut, Bernard; Suanez, Serge; David, Laurence; Leckler, Fabien; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Ammann, Jerome; Grandjean, Philippe; Allemand, Pascal; Filipot, Jean-francois.
Large clastic cliff-top storm deposits (called CTSDs) are one of the most remarkable signatures that characterizes extreme storm wave events on coastal cliffs. Hence, the study of CTSDs is of key importance for understanding and predicting the impacts of extreme storm wave events on rocky coasts or establishing proxies for storm intensity. The present study uses new data including hydrodynamic measurements in both deep and intertidal waters, and records of CTSDs displacement and deposition across Banneg Island during the stormy winter 2013–2014. Two drone-based surveys were carried out in January 2013 (pre-storms) and in April 2014 (post-storms). In addition, complementary field observations were carried out during the winter, providing a comprehensive and...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Cliff-top storm deposit; Block transport; Extra-tropical cyclone; Run-up; Coastal erosion; Brittany.
Ano: 2016 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00353/46411/46139.pdf
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A new climate index controlling winter wave activity along the Atlantic coast of Europe: The West Europe Pressure Anomaly ArchiMer
Castelle, Bruno; Dodet, Guillaume; Masselink, Gerd; Scott, Tim.
A pioneering and replicable method based on a 66-year numerical weather and wave hindcast is developed to optimize a climate index based on the sea level pressure (SLP) that best explains winter wave height variability along the coast of western Europe, from Portugal to UK (36-52 degrees N). The resulting so-called Western Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) is based on the sea level pressure gradient between the stations Valentia (Ireland) and Santa Cruz de Tenerife (Canary Islands). The WEPA positive phase reflects an intensified and southward shifted SLP difference between the Icelandic low and the Azores high, driving severe storms that funnel high-energy waves toward western Europe southward of 52 degrees N. WEPA outscores by 25-150% the other leading...
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Ano: 2017 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71850/70485.pdf
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A numerical scheme for coastal morphodynamic modelling on unstructured grids ArchiMer
Guerin, Thomas; Bertin, Xavier; Dodet, Guillaume.
Over the last decade, modelling systems based on unstructured grids have been appearing increasingly attractive to investigate the dynamics of coastal zones. However, the resolution of the sediment continuity equation to simulate bed evolution is a complex problem which often leads to the development of numerical oscillations. To overcome this problem, addition of artificial diffusion or bathymetric filters are commonly employed methods, although these techniques can potentially over-smooth the bathymetry. This study aims to present a numerical scheme based on the Weighted Essentially Non-Oscillatory (WENO) formalism to solve the bed continuity equation on unstructured grids in a finite volume formulation. The new solution is compared against a classical...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Morphodynamic modelling; Unstructured grid; WENO; Diffusion; Coastal environments; Exner equation.
Ano: 2016 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71851/70480.gif
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Extreme wave activity during 2013/2014 winter and morphological impacts along the Atlantic coast of Europe ArchiMer
Masselink, Gerd; Castelle, Bruno; Scott, Tim; Dodet, Guillaume; Suanez, Serge; Jackson, Derek; Floc'H, France.
Studies of coastal vulnerability due to climate change tend to focus on the consequences of sea level rise, rather than the complex coastal responses resulting from changes to the extreme wave climate. Here we investigate the 2013/2014 winter wave conditions that severely impacted the Atlantic coast of Europe and demonstrate that this winter was the most energetic along most of the Atlantic coast of Europe since at least 1948. Along exposed open-coast sites, extensive beach and dune erosion occurred due to offshore sediment transport. More sheltered sites experienced less erosion and one of the sites even experienced accretion due to beach rotation induced by alongshore sediment transport. Storm wave conditions such as were encountered during the 2013/2014...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Waves; Storms; Beaches; Atlantic; Europe.
Ano: 2016 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71852/70473.pdf
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Historical variation and trends in storminess along the Portuguese South Coast ArchiMer
Almeida, L. P.; Ferreira, O.; Vousdoukas, M. I.; Dodet, Guillaume.
This work investigates historical variation and trends in storm climate for the South Portugal region, using data from wave buoy measurements and from modelling, for the period 1952 to 2009. Several storm parameters (annual number of storms; annual number of days with storms; annual maximum and mean individual storm duration and annual 99.8th percentile of significant wave height) were used to analyse: (1) historical storminess trends; (2) storm parameter variability and relationships; and (3) historical storminess and its relationship to the North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO). No statistically significant linear increase or decrease was found in any of the storm parameters over the period of interest. The main pattern of storm characteristics and extreme...
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Ano: 2011 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71858/70468.pdf
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Increased Winter-Mean Wave Height, Variability, and Periodicity in the Northeast Atlantic Over 1949-2017 ArchiMer
Castelle, Bruno; Dodet, Guillaume; Masselink, Gerhard; Scott, Tim.
A 69-year (1948-2017) numerical weather and wave hindcast is used to investigate the interannual variability and trend of winter wave height along the west coast of Europe. Results show that the winter-mean wave height, variability, and periodicity all increased significantly in the northeast Atlantic over the last seven decades which primarily correlate with changes in the climate indices North Atlantic Oscillation (NAO) and West Europe Pressure Anomaly (WEPA) affecting atmospheric circulation in the North Atlantic. NAO and WEPA primarily explain the increase in winter-mean wave height and periodicity, respectively, while both WEPA and NAO explain the increase in interannual variability. This increase in trend, variability, and periodicity resulted in...
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Ano: 2018 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71847/70487.pdf
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Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts ArchiMer
Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion.
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum.
Ano: 2018 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf
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The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes ArchiMer
Dodet, Guillaume; Melet, Angélique; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bertin, Xavier; Idier, Déborah; Almar, Rafael.
Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics....
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Wind waves; Sea level; Coastal zone; Climate change.
Ano: 2019 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/66721.pdf
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Wave Runup Over Steep Rocky Cliffs ArchiMer
Dodet, Guillaume; Leckler, Fabien; Sous, D.; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Suanez, S..
Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low‐to‐mild‐sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < tanβ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Wave runup; Steep slopes; Rocky cliffs; Extreme values; Banneg Island.
Ano: 2018 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00463/57518/59695.pdf
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Wave-current interactions in a wave-dominated tidal inlet ArchiMer
Dodet, Guillaume; Bertin, Xavier; Bruneau, Nicolas; Fortunato, Andre B.; Nahon, Alphonse; Roland, Aron.
Wave-current interactions play a major role in the dynamics of shallow tidal inlets. This study investigates these interactions at a natural inlet, with a strong focus on current-induced changes on wave propagation. The analysis of hydrodynamic data collected at the Albufeira lagoon, Portugal, revealed spatiotemporal variations of water levels and wave heights along the inlet, attributed to wave-current interaction processes. We compared the simulations of a coupled wave-circulation modeling system, computed with and without waves, and propagated with and without current feedback. The wave-induced setup inside the lagoon represented 7%-15% of the offshore significant wave height. The accuracy of the wave's predictions improved when current feedback was...
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Ano: 2013 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00606/71854/70471.pdf
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