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Infragravity waves: from driving mechanisms to impacts ArchiMer
Bertin, Xavier; De Bakker, Anouk; Van Dongeren, Ap; Coco, Giovanni; Andre, Gael; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Bonneton, Philippe; Bouchette, Frederic; Castelle, Bruno; Crawford, Wayne C.; Davidson, Mark; Deen, Martha; Dodet, Guillaume; Guerin, Thomas; Inch, Kris; Leckler, Fabien; Mccall, Robert; Muller, Heloise; Olabarrieta, Maitane; Roelvink, Dano; Ruessink, Gerben; Sous, Damien; Stutzmann, Eleonore; Tissier, Marion.
Infragravity (hereafter IG) waves are surface ocean waves with frequencies below those of wind-generated "short waves" (typically be- low 0.04 Hz). Here we focus on the most common type of IG waves, those induced by the presence of groups in incident short waves. Three related mechanisms explain their generation: (1) the development, shoaling and release of waves bound to the short-wave group envelopes (2) the modulation by these envelopes of the location where short waves break, and (3) the merging of bores (breaking wave front, resembling to a hydraulic jump) inside the surfzone. When reaching shallow water (O(1-10 m)), IG waves can transfer part of their energy back to higher frequencies, a process which is highly dependent on beach slope. On gently...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Bound wave; Dissipation; Reflection; Sediment transport; Barrier breaching; Seiche; Earth hum.
Ano: 2018 URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00417/52876/53800.pdf
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Numerical modelling of equilibrium and evolving lightweight sediment laboratory beach profiles. ArchiMer
Dubarbier, Benjamin; Castelle, Bruno; Marieu, Vincent; Michallet, Hervé; Grasso, Florent; Ruessink, Gerben.
The recent advances of numerical beach profile models allowed the simulation of on/offshore sandbar migrations on timescales of weeks to months with fair success. These models were systematically applied to natural, persistently evolving, beaches. In this contribution, we apply our model to small-scale laboratory experiments for which coarse and lightweight sediment is used to satisfy the laws of similitude in the flume. Such experiments can result in equilibrium beach profiles and provide detailed information on the respective role of undertow and wave nonlinearities on sediment transport and the resulting cross-shore sandbar migration. Here we first apply the coupled, wave-averaged, cross-shore waves-currents-bathymetric evolution model 1DBeach to an...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Beach profile; Numerical model; Physical modelling; Equilibrium profile; Sandbar migration.
Ano: 2013 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29089/27503.pdf
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