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| Sous, D.; Dodet, Guillaume; Bouchette, F.; Tissier, M. |
| This paper reports on a combined experimental and numerical study dedicated to barrier reefs hydrodynamics. A network of pressure sensors and velocity profilers has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The primary aim of the study is to assess the relevance of the classical depth‐averaged momentum balance in such a complex and poorly documented environment. The combined analysis of experimental and numerical measurements reveals a specific hydrodynamic behaviour contrasting with sandy beaches and fringing reefs. The cross‐reef current induced by wave breaking over the barrier reef plays an important role in the momentum budget, in particular through friction processes. The hydrodynamic behaviour over the... |
| Tipo: Text |
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| Ano: 2020 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00607/71890/70591.pdf |
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| Dodet, Guillaume; Leckler, Fabien; Sous, D.; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Filipot, Jean-francois; Suanez, S.. |
| Wave runup is known to depend on offshore wave conditions and coastal morphology. While most field studies on wave runup have focused on low‐to‐mild‐sloping sandy beaches, runup measurements on steep and irregular rocky cliff profiles are still very scarce. Here we investigate the physical processes controlling wave runup in such environments and the range of applicability of empirical runup formula. This study focuses on the steep rocky cliffs (0.1 < tanβ < 0.4) of Banneg Island, a small island located in the Molène archipelago, Brittany, France, occasionally flooded during extreme water level events. A statistical parameter for extreme runup is derived from the measurements of pressure sensors deployed in the intertidal zone. Deep water wave... |
| Tipo: Text |
Palavras-chave: Wave runup; Steep slopes; Rocky cliffs; Extreme values; Banneg Island. |
| Ano: 2018 |
URL: https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00463/57518/59695.pdf |
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