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Observations of large infragravity wave runup at Banneg Island, France ArchiMer
Sheremet, Alex; Staples, Tracy; Ardhuin, Fabrice; Suanez, Serge; Fichaut, Bernard.
On Banneg Island, France, very high water-level events (6.5 m above the astronomical tide) have been observed on the western cliff, exposed to large swells from the North Atlantic. The analysis of hydrodynamic measurements collected during the storm of 10 February 2009 shows unusually high (over 2 m) infragravity wave runup events. By comparing runup observations to measurements in approximately 7 m of water and numerical simulations with a simplified nonlinear model, two distinct infragravity bands may be identified: an 80 s infragravity wave, produced by nonlinear shoaling of the storm swell; and a 300 s wave, trapped on the intertidal platform of the island and generating intermittent, low-frequency inundation. Our analysis shows that the 300 s waves...
Tipo: Text Palavras-chave: Infragravity waves; Trapped waves; Storm waves.
Ano: 2014 URL: http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00175/28642/27070.pdf
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